Category Spring / Summer 26
Cloth Deadstock wool-silk, 310 gsm
Mill Biella, Italy
Construction Unfused, hand-padded collar
Edition 74 pieces
Wholesale €248
Retail €570
Everything structural in a normal jacket - the pad, the canvas, the fusible - is either glued or synthetic, and none of it can be taken apart again. This one has none of it. The shape comes from the pattern and from a collar that Rui pads by hand.
It means the jacket hangs from the body rather than sitting on it, which takes some getting used to if you have worn tailoring before, and which is why it still fits people three sizes apart.
The cloth is a deadstock wool-silk from a Biella mill, bought as eleven rolls in 2023.