Category Permanent line
Cloth Undyed wet-spun linen, 240 gsm
Mill Vanhoutte, Kortrijk
Made in Bonfim, Porto
Edition Made to order, no cap
Wholesale €184
Retail €420
The first thing I ever made under this name, and the piece the rest of the line is measured against. It is one length of undyed wet-spun linen, cut with no lining, no interfacing and no fusible anywhere - so it can be unpicked, washed and remade by anybody with a sewing machine.
The cloth comes off one loom at the Vanhoutte mill in Kortrijk, from flax grown within sixty kilometres of it. We buy it undyed because the flax colour is already the colour I want, and because dyeing it would double what it costs the river.
It softens hard in the first six months and then stops moving. Most of the ones I have seen come back for repair are seven or eight years old and only need the pocket corners restitched.
